New Information and Happenings
Coming soon!
Check back later to read a review I am writing about The Portland Phoenix! I have lots of great stuff in store for you. From disgust about Jeff Inglis, the Managing Editor, who basically manages to screw up everything he touches….to the nonsensical ramblings of village idiot, Leischen Stetler……….she’s ALMOST as much of an inept writer as the moronic Brian Duff! is that possible?
Stay tuned!
Clabber is basically creme fraiche. The Germans call it “quark”. The Scots-Irish who settled in the Appalachian Mountains figured it out too. The same folks who essentially created bluegrass music and early “americana” music, figured out how to allow unpasteurized milk to curdle just exactly perfectly. A thick, yogurt-like substance that occurs when our friend “cream” is left to settle in a humid and slightly warm climate.
Mitra and Max Luick are friends of ours. Last year, we harvested one of their beautiful hogs. Anything involving a pig, a nice little farm, a .22 that stunned the pig on the third shot, and a sticking with my kramer knife…..well, that builds relationships. Mitch and I broke the hog down.
Here it is, almost a year later, and Mitra contacts me about some little Tamworth piggies. We met Sophie, the sow, last year. I am bringing in a few of her offspring, in various stages of life for Evangeline.
Here is the great part………….she told me she was feeding some chickens with the aforementioned clabber, and a by product of cheese, whey. Sylvia Pryzant from Four Story Hill Farm in Pennsylvania is now famous within the culinary world for her milk fed birds. Hers were delicious, but expensive with the shipping. Mitra’s birds are real chickens. And so delicious. And right down the road.
Both Krista and I picked up a handful of these birds. The flesh is an amazing thing. Thick, juicy, milky white where it has to be, dark every where else. You can smell the pasture they grazed on and the dairy they snacked on. Chickens dont normally drink milk, but they LOVE Yogurt.
Evangeline will be offering a whole roast clabber fed chicken from Mitra with a day notice. We will also have them broken down and prepared properly based on the cut……but I think the best way to enjoy these birds is to roast them whole. Get them while you can. We roasted one for a photo shoot today, and oh my god, it is a wonderful thing. Jon Levitt (grassdoe photographer) was in awe. My folks and sister stopped by to drop off my guitar, saw the roasted bird and asked about it. I gave it to them to bring home for dinner. I wish I had it right now to devour.
If you want a whole roast bird, call us 24 hours in advance. Bresca will also have one split in half every night this next week. A half bird will feed two, easily. A whole bird at Evangeline will REALLY feed two. Take the carcass home and make stock.
Evangeline Clabber fed Chicken Hotline: 791-2800
Bresca Clabber fed Chicken Hotline: 772-1004
If we had a spotlight like Batman, in the shape of a chicken, we would use it.
Erik and Krista
I never review restaurants. In fact, I don’t think I have written a review since Bresca, over 2 years ago. But, after dinner tonight, I feel like I have to. This is VERY unlike me…so maybe I’m getting old or something. My friend Joe Ricchio wrote a flattering review of Kon Asian Bistro last week (www.portlandfoodcoma.blogspot.com). While I definitely knew that the positive account of his dinner may have been fueled by the 151 on his Scorpion Bowl, I had to check it out myself.
When I first heard about it, I said to Krista, “Asian Bistro? That’s not even a thing….” and completely wrote it off. I think I threw the paper menu in the trash after tearing it to shreds. We don’t get many chances to dine out, and there is NO WAY I would waste a night off eating at a tacky Pan-Asian joint, with no focus on regional food. Why would I do that? Scorpion bowl? What am I?… 19, drinking at The Golden Dragon in Nashua with a fake ID?
Krista said, “Come on, it will be fun.”
So we went. All the way to exit 48. As we approached the exit, I saw in big bold red lettering “Kon.” There it was. I admit, I was a little bit excited. We pulled in to the parking lot, and immediately we saw a familiar face, Holly, said hello then entered through two glass doors with gold decorative globes.
The interior is sort of gaudy….huge gold buddha, up-lit bar. Ricchio seemed to think that the bar was “made of magic”, and I totally agree. There was an undercurrent of some sort of magic going on……or something. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. I really didn’t want it to be good. But it was.
We ordered some cocktails, a Sapphire and tonic and a Sake Martini. Sapphire is my go to these days to sip and peruse the menu. I did so at Salt Exchange and The Corner Room, and it is definitely comforting. Krista got her Sake Martini, and I had a taste. Nothing special, but not bad. Normally, I would say “Well, it’s not even a Martini. Martinis aren’t made with Sake. That’s not even a thing….” But I didn’t. For some strange reason, I was actually comfortable and genuinely happy to be there. (?????????)
We ordered, and our server (Stephanie?) was totally cool and understood we wanted to pace everything out. We have had a recent experience where we wanted things coursed out, and wound up with 9 plates on our table at the same time. That was horrendous. Stephanie actually knew what we were talking about. On exit 48. Not in Portland proper. At an “Asian Bistro”. (??????????)
The food began to arrive. Spicy Tuna tartare, with fried tempura batter that was crumbled in to a tasty, crunchy little pile. Yes, a pile of tempura crumble. (mind you all, I know absolutely nothing about asian cooking AT ALL…krista explained what it was.) We devoured the whole thing. The tuna was just spicy enough, and the three sauces were perfect. (???????????perfect????????) Was I buzzed from my Sapphire and Tonic? I looked over and saw that I was only half finished, so no. The dish was GOOD. (I still can’t believe I am writing this.) I ate what was left of the pile of crumbled batter.
The fried Rock Shrimp came slathered in a kewpie based sauce. I have only recently discovered the truly delicious kewpie japanese mayonnaise. I’m completely hooked. Where have I been? Under a rock in Provence? The shrimps were fried crunchy, and retained their crisp exterior and warm sweet interior. Ricchio claimed that this dish was, at the moment, the best dish in Portland. Holy crap, it was awesome.
Then, the duck dish. Roasted duck meat, scallion and cucumber, hoisin sauce and steamed rolls. The duck and accoutrements were great. But, the steamed rolls were absolutely out of this world. I have had steamed rolls at old school chinese places who hold tradition in high regard. Their rolls were banal compared to these. Light, fluffy, soft…..they almost levitated off the plate. (?????????????????) Am I actually writing this?
We had a few more courses, and I wont bore with the details, but I have to say……they were all awesome. (The beef negamaki needed salt, but we doused it in soy and the flavors soared). That was my only complaint. My only complaint? Yes. The lettuce roll with beef had a brunoise of perfectly cooked root vegetables. Cut by hand. While this is no huge feat to any cook who works in upscale kitchens with “real” chefs, I was certainly not expecting it on Exit 48. We stayed away from the sushi and sashimi because we like to go to our favorite sushi joints for raw fish, not Exit 48. The rest of the menu offered enough lip smacking goodness. (Somebody shoot me for saying that……)
We finished half a scorpion bowl, with the little 151 flame and two foot straws. Krista and I shared the 151 shot which was…..well….151. I’m not 19 anymore, but a shot of 151 every decade doesn’t hurt. I merely had to tip my head to the right one inch to sip the juicy booziness from the bowl that was a foot away from me, thanks to the long straws. As we finished the General Tso’s chicken, I thought to myself “Don’t question it……you are actually happy with this “Asian Bistro” even if there is no such thing as an asian bistro. Bistros are in Paris. NOT the United States. And not Asian.
While there is absolutely nothing traditional or rootsy about this place, I will definitely go back. The interior is tacky as hell, but there is a room with about 6 Hibachi tables, and guys in tall toques flipping spatulas and forks around, tossing shrimps at customers. I sent Ricchio a text as soon as we left, happy and not too full. We are going to try to make an evening with a bunch of us around the hibachi, with a chef there to throw stuff at us. I have a feeling the Scorpion Bowls will be wrecked, the fried shrimps will be flying around, and I will be sitting in my little corner of delight. We may not ever be allowed again at Kon Asian Bistro….but I’m willing to risk it. Kon Asian Bistro. On Exit 48. That’s right. Exit 48.
*****CAVEAT EMPTOR******* I never eat asian food. Please don’t go here based on my account. I had a wonderful time, but I am coming off of a really bad streak of luck with dining out. There are no culinary epiphanies or gastronomic wonders. Those who dig really traditional stuff may not enjoy, but those who want a good time with tasty food and good drink, definitely check it out. Exit 48……..
12 Seats is a collaboration between Krista and I. 12 Seats is just what the title says. 12 seats, 12 courses, 12 times in one year. The last Sunday of each month, Krista and I will transform bresca in to an amalgamation of our culinary and hospitality passions. 12 Seats will take over the bresca dining room and kitchen, and she and I will transform ourselves into one chef with the mind of two cooks.
All things Evangeline and Bresca circling our minds will be set aside for collaborative menus created organically. Things we want to cook, the way we want to cook them. The menu will be set. Unfortunately, vegetarians, pescatarians and vegans will have some difficulty with our menus, as there will be no substitutions except for severe allergies, and these need to be appropriate to each dish. Again, we are cooking what we want to cook. We love our meat and foie gras. We love our dairy, our caviar and our wheat. As it is a monthly event, a restaurant within a restaurant, the menus we create will be deliberate and therefore we will be unable to make alterations. We are cooking for those who want to let everything go and just be fed and entertained with great ingredients and wine.
There will be one table of 12, one seating only. The evening will allow us to spread our wings and really COOK. The relationship between you, the guest, and we, 12 Seats, begins with the first conversation about reserving seats. And, hopefully the relationship won’t end once you leave after dinner.
The first night 12 Seats will be open will be Sunday October 25th. The seating is at 6:30 PM. We ask that you arrive between 6 and 6:15. Please call 207-838-FOIE(3643) for reservations or just to chat.
Erik and Krista
P.S. how cool is it that we got the FOIE number????
With the spring season turning soon to summer, I’d like to say a few words about my favorite cheese, Winnemere, from our friends at Jasper Hill Farm. The gooey, unctuous, earthy, and milky cheese, has all of the flavors, aromas and textures. Wrapped in bark, with a washed rind, the flavors are complex, but in the end, it is just a really deliciously amazing cheese. I believe the season is almost over, so come an get it while you can.
By far, my favorite thing to pair with this cheese (and many others) is honey. We had a great small batch honey made by our ex-dishwasher’s mom, which was awesome. We are now using one from Peak’s Island. I’m always looking for small batch varietals of honey, so if you know a neighbor or a grandma with bees, let me know!
The pairing of a stellar Gorgonzola Dolce with blueberry honey is one of life’s pleasures. At Bresca, Krista served honey with Pecorino and pinent d’Esplette. My favorite dessert has always been fromage blanc with fruits and honey. Last time I had that, I believe I was eating my way through the South of France, off the beaten path, way off the grid. Fond memories…..Cheese and honey….on the same plate? No kidding! Call France! And nothing screams childhood like toast, with cream cheese and a drizzle of honey, made by mom on saturday morning. Foul? I think not……
Come on in and enjoy wines from our user friendly re-designed wine list with a heaping spoonful of Winnemere, toast and Honey. Yup, cheese and honey. Could it get any simpler?
eDh
(Erik H. Desjarlais)
Back by popular demand, Evangeline presents the Bar Menu:
BAR MENU
$6
WARM MIXED OLIVES
LA QUERCIA CURED HAM AND CELERIAC REMOULADE
FENNEL, ORANGE AND OLIVE SALAD
BEETS AND FERN HILL FARM GOAT’S CHEESE
WHITE ASPARAGUS AND MOUSSELINE
SALADE VERTE, LIGHT MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
FRITES AND MAYONNAISE
$9
AIGRE DOUX SWEETBREADS
DAILY SPANISH OMELET
$12
TARTINES: SERVED WITH FRITES
ROASTED AND BRAISED PORK, MUSTARD, CORNICHON, GREENS, GRUYERE
SMOKED SALMON, GOAT’S CHEESE, GREENS, CAPERS AND RED ONION RELISH
ROASTED BOOK STEAK, GRUYERE AND FRIED HEN’S EGG
DAILY CHEESES
$4 EACH
One of the most alluring and sensual food movies is Babette’s Feast. If you are a cook, francophile, foodie, chef, or otherwise a restaurant employee who cares, Babette’s Feast SHOULD draw emotion. Babette is a French refugee in 19th century Denmark, or Jutland. She is employed by two devout sisters, committed to the memory of their father and the idea of God.
Babette’s only connection to France is a lottery ticket a relative of hers purchases for her every year, and one year, she wins. Fourteen years of service to these women, Babette offers to cook dinner for the celebration of the sisters’ father, which is held every year…..silently and without ANY nice things.
Reluctantly, the sisters allow Babette to cook for the celebration, and the villagers commit to silence during the feast. Being God fearing folks, they don’t want to be perceived as gluttons under God’s eyes. Unfortunately for these God-Fearing folks, the dinner Babette unleashes is a celebration of all things delicious…..here it goes…..
Sherry…..delicious
Potage a la Tortue……….turtle soup served in beautiful bouillon bowls with handles….(like Evangeline)
Blini Demidoff au Caviar……..buckwheat blinis with creme fraiche and caviar
Caille en Sarcophage……quails in puff pastry with truffle sauce
Le Salad……….endive, walnuts and vinaigrette
Les fromages……….a shitload of cheeses with fruits
Baba au Rhum………Rum cake with figs and fruits.
Babette is stuck on a godforsaken island. Babette wins the lottery. Babette decides to feed the locals a feast completely unknown to them……these people know beer and bread soup. These folks see the rowboat arrive with a live turtle, a cage with live quail, cheeses, french wines, a block of ice, and a schmeppy commis named Erik. Erik transports the block of ice and a pocketfull of perigord black truffles to her abode, and begins the prep for her.
Long story cut short, Babette blows these people away with her culinary greatness. The only guy there who has any idea about food is a French General who speaks of a wonderful restaurant in Paris he used to dine at, who served the same quail dish. (Babette was the chef…)He knows how to use the sauce spoon. He knows what the wine is all about. The folks in the village begin to open up and actually enjoy her offerings, and SMILE. They devour the fresh fruits and cheeses, and wash them down with wines. They dance around the well after the dinner, and the General leaves……….Babette then tells the sisters she spent her entire lottery winnings on this feast, and will remain in their home as a servant.
“Now you will be poor the rest of your life….”
On June 7th, Krista and I will be a part of the culinary movies at 1 Longfellow Square. We will be cooking while you watch the flick. Call One Longfellow Sq to buy tickets……207-761-1757
see you there!
Erik
Join us, Sunday June 21st for Father’s Day Dinner. Expect big wines, and big steaks (for a reasonable pricetag!) Check back for details!
Big applause and congrats to Chef Rob Evans and his team at Hugos. Rob “took the gold” for the Northeast Best Chef award from the James Beard Foundation this past Monday night. While it is an honor just being nominated, the accolade is coveted, and a giant step in the career of any chef to win.
When you dine at Hugos, be sure to send a congrats to the chef and crew.
If you look to the right, under the blogroll, you will see a new b-log by my wife, Krista, Chef/owner of bresca. Aside from being a talented chef and the best wife, she also dabbles in writing. Look it up!
Erik
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