11.25.08
Tasting Menu
Evangeline has begun offering a 5 course tasting menu. It is something I have been meaning to begin, and have FINALLY gotten around to structuring it. Come on in and enjoy for $55!
11.12.08
Praise The Lard
Evangeline will begin a menu praising the Pig! We always praise the pig, but I have finally created an a la carte menu featuring dishes from Ol’ No. 50, and Snorton.
PRAISE THE LARD!
CELEBRATING OL’ #50
PICKLED SOUS VIDE HEART
SAUERKRAUT • GRUYERE• 1,001 ISLAND DRESSING 9
HOMAGE TO BUFFALO, NY
MITCH’S PEAMEAL BACON • FRIED HEN’S EGG• MÂCHE 9
LIVERWURST
HOUSEMADE LIVERWURST •ROAST ONIONS• MUSTARD-MAYO• PICKLED VEGETABLES 9
PISSALADIER
FLATBREAD, • BLOOD SAUSAGE• APPLES • RACLETTE 9
CASSOULET
HEAD TO TOE • MAINE YELLOW EYE BEANS• THYME BREADCRUMBS 14
PIG’S HEAD BOURGOGNE
RED WINE BRAISED CHEEK • CARROTS, PARSNIPS• RED WINE BROTH 19
DOUBLE CUT CHOP (SERVES 2…OR 1 WITH AN APPETITE)
BRAISED RED CABBAGE• LADY APPLES• SAUCE MOUTARDE 35
11.10.08
Duck Press “Reducks”
Well, folks, Evangeline has been open now for almost 7 months, and it has been a true pleasure. We are constantly learning from our highs and lows. From cooking techniques, to points of service, to a new POS machine, to new faces in management. We’ve broken down almost four 290# Hogs from Breezy Hill Farm. Mitch has figured out perfect bacon cures, dry and wet, and the Zen of Curing Hams. If you see him, ask him about his first ham. Actually, no….don’t. But we all learned.
We have connected with some nice folks from a little farm called Upback. Amy and her family are breeding Muscovy ducks. She has ponds that she can drain into each other so the birds can graze on the critters on the bottom…..so they taste like ducks. Not corn. They have the perfect layer of fat, unlike their cousins. Nothing wrong with fat, don’t get me wrong. We save all fat, from duck, to pork, to aged beef, to chicken, and use all of them for beautiful things. However, for the duck press, the female Muskies have the perfect amount of fat to baste itself while the duck roasts. They have long, thick breasts, deep red flesh, and thin skin, to create the perfect crisp. The legs, on the other hand, are really small and stubby. For a confit or a braise, they are perfect. However, for a whole roast duck, especially for Canard Presse, they are best suited to go straight in the press to release their gold into the sauce.
We have found out that the gentlemen chefs in France, aside from La Tour d’Argent, are only serving the breasts these days, and, apparently for good reason. The oldschool guys carve the duck tableside,and the sauce is a thick, black, chunky rig. The whole process taking almost 45 minutes to complete. At Evangeline, we are streamlining the event, and making old new. The carving is done in the kitchen, and I blend the chunky sauce into a smooth emulsion. All the same flavour attributes of the traditional dish, but a little more finesse. I forego the wine and butter, and add a little bit of reduced duckstock, and blend in the duck’s liver and bits of foie gras to enrich, instead of butter. Then a splash of red vinegar to make the sauce “sparkle” a bit.
Each breed of duck enables you to have a completely organic approach to the cooking method. Learning is a minute by minute process. I have found this process to work best for the ducks we use.
On a different, yet related note…on Tuesday, November 18, Evangeline will be hosting a “Harvest Dinner” of sorts. Amy from Upback Farm will be there to talk briefly about her ducks. Matt from Sparrow Arc Farm to talk dirt, apples and perfect veggies. Luke from Browne Trading Co to talk about being a Fishmonger, and Vince from the Cheese Iron to talk curds. We will be highlighting product from these passionate folks in a 4 course menu. They are all amazing folks, and REALLY in to what they do. The menu will be $55 prix fixe. Call 791-2800.
The Veuve dinner was a BLAST, and Tilar Mazzeo, the featured author was great as well. Hope everyone enjoyed, From my perch, it looked like everyone did.
best,
Erik