04.13.07

Is it really true?

Posted in First Blog at 1:07 pm by heidi

So happy to hear you’ll soon be back!  Dying to hear more…

Best,

–Heidi

04.11.07

555, Hugo’s and Bresca

Posted in First Blog at 4:12 pm by Erik

In the past six years I have called Portland home, I watched it evolve into quite the forward thinking food-town.  Every level of restaurant is represented here in our fair city, and since I have had some time off, I have had the opportunity to finally eat, and eat well.  The top 5 restaurants, (in my opinion) are the top 5 because of the fact that they all provide the “One way ticket to Tastytown”.  Tastytown is just a small village in “Deliciousville County”, and, is sometimes difficult to find. 

I’m not going to give my “Top 5″ in this forum, because….well, who cares what I think anyway?

However, I think a Congratulations is in order for three Chef/Owners as well as the city they reside in.  Again, this is in no particular order.

Steve Corry, and his wife Michelle opened 555 the same summer I opened Bandol.  We were at the same City Council meeting for our liquor licenses, and chatted a bit after the meeting.  I was sympathetic with them, because we were both going through the same steps at the same time.  555 has evolved into quite the hotspot in town, both elegant and comfortable, with delicious food, smart winelist, and charming staff. 

Steve has been named in Food and Wine Magazine as one of the Top 10 Chefs in the Country.  This coveted decree is a monumental turningpoint for any chef who is recognised by that list.  The food was always stellar, but now the WHOLE COUNTRY knows it.  Congrats, Steve and Michelle, (and good luck with the reservations….not a bad problem to have)

Rob Evans, chef/proprietor of Hugo’s and Duckfat was nominated for a James Beard Award.  The James Beard Foundation is sort of like the Oscars for Chefs.  Being nominated is an enourmous event in itself, and one of the top honors in the Country, if not, the world.  Rob was in the “Top 10 List” in F&W in 2004, as well.  Well deserved.  You have to eat at Hugo’s, because I don’t have enough room on this board to wax poetic about his skills. 

From Hugo’s front door, Rob could throw a Black Truffle and hit Sam Hayward’s Fore Street.  Sam won a James Beard Award a few years ago.  I don’t think Rob would necessarily waste a Truffle to prove proximity, but my point is that there are two Chefs recognised by The JBF within one city block of each other.  THAT is pretty amazing.  Congrats to Rob and Nancy, and their committed staff as well.

Krista Kern opened Bresca mid-February.  I first met her when she looked at the space previously occupied by Bandol.  It has taken her well over a year to finally land (I can relate), but she landed gracefully into an intimate space on Middle Street, right next to the Cop-Shop.

Last night, a friend of mine joined me for some snacks and wine at Bresca.  (Now, I’m not a food critic.  I wish I could be a “Critic Critic”, because of the lack of talent and food knowlege that 98% of Maine’s food critics/writers have….but that’s for another post.  Coming soon….)

Eating at a place like Bresca, or the places mentioned above, you don’t look to criticise.  You just eat and drink and have a good time.  You don’t have to worry about sub-par food, or whether or not the cook washed his/her hands.  Or to have a server who doesn’t give a fuck about their job, the restaurant, or the proprietor, never mind the diners comfort.  The next time I hear “You still workin’ on that?”, the server in question will wind up wearing what I’m eating, hopefully hot soup, and I’ll just say “NO….”

Sorry, back to Bresca.

The space is small, but designed well.  I tend to get claustrphobic in small spaces, and last night proved that theory wrong.  Once you settle in, the space sort of magically spreads its wings, and a certain level of comfort sets in.  Then it feels Just Exactly Perfect.

On to the food.  First of all, Ms Kern is an EXTREMELY talented Pastry Chef.  (I wanted her at Bandol, but people told me I could never afford her.)  But her talent with savories is spot on as well.  Italian theories and flavors, totally focused and concentrated.  From menu design and set-up, all the way through the last bit of sauce squeegeed with bread.  Delicious.  Simple.   My dining partner and I split each dish, and noticed that not one flavor was repeated, and that each dish was deliberate.  Totally thought out brilliantly. 

The guy cooking with her used to work with me at Bandol.  I stated, halfway through my agnolotti dish, “He never cooked this well when he worked for ME……Whathefuck?”  (oooooooh….sorry Jay….)

While I gulped down the last agnolotti, my friend (she LOVES food), sort of stared off into space. ( I’ve seen the same look when a friend of mine got whacked in the back of the head with a lacrosse ball, or ate too many psychedelics at a Dead Show…)…..pupils dialated, slight smirk, twitching eyelid….she was totally into the food in front of her, and had one of those gastronomic moments.  “Try this…….” was all she said.

The dish was one of the simplest, purest, totally in-synch things I have experienced in a long time.  A trembling “6 minute” soft boiled egg, cured pork , some toast, and braised greens.  4 components, one plate.  I put a bit of each on my fork, and was immediately handed the coveted “One Way Ticket To Tastytown” I adore so much. 

The room turned gold, fat little Cherubs came out of nowhere blowing the really long horns you always see in paintings with Cherubs.  You’ve seen them……everything around me became sort of fuzzy and ethereal, and I’m pretty sure I looked like the guy who got hit with the lacrosse ball.  Food epiphany.  It has only happened to me about 10 times in the past 15 years, and I’ve eaten a ton of good food at a ton of restaurants.  I guess that particular dish is just one of “those” dishes.

So, no National Awards were won, no magazine covers, but Krista Kern totally wins for creating Portland’s newest Box Office For Tastytown Tickets.  So, a final congratulations to Krista Kern as well.Â